Maxwell's Lost Again

I loved Koh Tao.

The pace, the natural beauty, the snorkeling, the size of the island, the odd assortment of people. It was a true tourist paradise. I thought I would have a reprieve from going out after my boys went off to Phuket, but that is not the Koh Tao way. I have rarely in my life felt older or more welcome. I managed a strict 12:30 curfew every night, the only reason I am still standing to write this, but I’ll miss my German and Kiwi and Portuguese and even American friends. A Berliner named Max told me I would most likely get into Berghain this summer, and I finally know how to properly pronounce it, though after learning what the line is like, it seems like a skip. He might join me at another (less pretentious) nightclub. The New Zealanders will be more difficult to reconnect with, but they assure me they will let me know all I need to do in New Zealand once I make it there. I refrained from telling them most of my interest in their country is Lord of the Rings related. I think they might have still known. They shared their Japan skiing recommendations with me regardless.

So much of life is our transportation. How much time do you spend going places? How much do you enjoy the trip? A 7km Long Island is full of scooters, mostly 125 cc Hondas that’ve been driven by dozens if not hundreds of people. Mine was lime green with a 17 on it — a lucky number. I drove it up some “roads” that looked like they’d been washed out for decades, only a few spots of concrete hinting to whatever they used to be, to get to the highest viewpoint on the island. A couple Brits walked the 5 kilometers then scoffed at the lady asking for 100 baht to go stand on the platform and take pictures. I can’t imagine flying then boating then walking just to shoot a sneer at a lady asking you for £3. I might have thrown a remark at them before scooting back down.

Traffic laws in all of Thailand seem mostly to be suggestions. In Bangkok or Koh Samui I take scooter taxis everywhere; it takes half the time when you’re weaving through traffic. There’s moments where I am legitimately afraid for my safety, but every other moment is elation. One of my drivers was a Thai woman with mile high cheekbones and pink hair; she made me hold her waist like we were in a Wong Kar Wai film. She spoke zero English but didn’t stop talking for the whole ride. I choose to believe she was saying something utterly romantic.

I am back on Koh Samui, lying low until I fly up to meet Owen in chiang Mai tomorrow. We have a basic itinerary set, it’ll be nice to travel with someone my own age, as much as I loved teaching the 20 year olds how to ride and go to bed early I am ready to be in like company. If all goes according to plan, Owen and I will meet Cam and Josh in Singapore to meet Josh’s family who live there and maybe (definitely) go to the casino. I have been through Marina Bay Sands but not to the roof or inside the casino. I figure I should fully do it this time.

I had more on all this but my laptop has been spontaneously shutting itself off. Once I’m settled for a few days in Chiang Mai I’ll have to get that sorted, but wanted to at least get some thoughts on Koh Tao down. Oh how I’ll miss that beach and the fishbowl.